A long day of celebration requires the combination of elegance and comfort, and to feel comfortable moving freely, not to spoil the excitement of the ceremony.
The male dress suit of the highest level is the tight, a mismatched, remarkably elegant garment which is worn during daytime prestigious ceremonies.
The jacket, in black or anthracite gray wool, has only one button, is short in front with shaped shoulders, and has a long rounded tail that smoothly reaches the calf, finishing in a wide brim.
The shirt is white with diplomatic neck, accompanied by the tie or, if you want to be impeccable, a pearl gray plastron secured by a pin.
The waistcoat, single-breasted or double-breasted, is in light gray satin.
The pants in “Cheviot” of herringbone gray wool are slightly pinstriped with a classic line, in two shades of gray.
Is considered the most difficult to tailor, and it is used for special occasions, preferably in the evening. You can see it on ceremonial occasions such as Nobel ceremonies, operas, concerts, theater, and it is also the common dress-code for orchestra’s leaders
The jacket has a prominent role: black double-breasted, with silk lapels and the unmistakable “dovetail.” The line is very tight and follows the anatomical shape of the body. The jacket is rather short, and it has the characteristic of never having to be buttoned up.
The shirt, white, usually has a stiffly starched dickey and a diplomatic collar where to knot the bow tie, also in white pique.
The vest is a must for those who wear a tailcoat, and is strictly in white pique. It can be single breasted with three / four buttons or double-breasted with three buttons.
The pants, which are blacks as well, without folds or flaps, are distinguished from those of the tuxedo for the presence of two satin stripes instead of one, although in Italy is tolerated the presence of a single gallon, too.
This suit is only worn at night after 18, at social events and galas. Throughout its history the tuxedo has been updated and amended several times. However, the compliance with certain tailoring rules determine its degree of elegance.
The jacket, rigorously buttoned, can be single-breasted or double-breasted, with classic silk satin lapels, or a lance neck. The traditional color is black, but there are other eligible variants, such as the famous “midnight blue”. The tuxedo can be tailored in wool, vicuña, alpaca, or twill.
As a rule, the sleeve has four silk covered buttons.
The shirt, strictly white, in cotton or silk, has double cuffs that must be turned and closed with cufflinks. The dickey can be smooth or pleated on the front, while the collar can be characterized by a 2-needle stitching or by collar wings, and never without tips.
The fundamental element of a tuxedo is the silk or satin black bow tie.
Beneath the jacket you can wear a vest (black, flared neck, three buttons) or a sash, a black satin tie belt on the back.
The pants, black and never turned-up, are characterized by a thin stripe (called gallon) in black satin, applied along the outer seams of both legs. The coat to wear is a chesterfield coat or an iron gray or black coat, sometimes with a white silk scarf or combed wool scarf.